We downloaded a map of Bangkok and decided to strike out on our own for the nearest Skytrain station, because we're cheapskates. The taxi drivers at the station seemed a little surprised and dismayed at our independence, but we shrugged them all off and continued on our way. We found the station after a short walk and got to the Ekkamai bus station ok. Unfortunately, though, we had slightly misjudged the travel times and were told that we'd be stuck in Trat for the night because things here in Thailand tend to close ridiculously early and we'd miss the last ferry at 7 o'clock. We decided to stay that nigh in Bangkok, not knowing about the sort of accommodations to be found in Trat. That ended up being a good decision, we found a nice hostel around the corner from the bus station and explored the Sukhimvit area of Bangkok a bit. I'm glad, because my previous explorations of Bangkok really did not impress me. It seemed very much like a city that can't figure out its identity. When you're in New York, or Paris, or London, even Atlanta, they have their own big city feel of sorts, and Bangkok just feels muddled and confused. Sukhimvit area seemed much more strong and aware of the face it wanted to show the world and was fun to walk around. It is a much more new area of the city.
Anyhow, we caught the 7 o'clock bus the next morning to Trat and it seemed a near thing as we ended up crowded in the very back seat with three broad shouldered Thai men for much of the way. We pulled in to Trat around 1 and had to catch a songtaew to the ferry, which took a little bit less an an hour. The ferry itself was another hour of travel, so we finally got to Koh Chang around 3 that afternoon. We ate lunch at a little noodle shop by the pier and rented a motorbike. Apparently we picked the hostel that is almost the farthest away that we could pick, because it took us around 45 minutes to bike to the south area of the island where we're staying. As far as scenery and feel it is a great choice, but the road is a bit terrifying in a couple of places (the hairpin-iest hairpin turns on steep inclines).
Sean and I were in a little 12x12 bungalow at the top of a cliff overlooking the ocean. It was absolutely beautiful and for 200 baht apiece a night, I feel we made a great choice. The nights were nice and cool so we had both windows propped open and a little fan for extra breeze. Hearing the ocean crash against the rocks below was really relaxing.
We went to a place called Ruan Thai Seafood for dinner. Great life choice. We got crab sautéed with red curry, crab baked with vermicelli (which had cloves of garlic and fat slices of ginger), and red curry with pineapple, shrimp, and coconut. I felt like such a glutton because it was so good I could not stop eating. The shrimp and crab were fresh and so was the pineapple, absolutely delicious.
The first full day we were here, we managed to talk to the Welshman who owns the place (who was quite impressed that we identified his accent) and after asking him for advice, we kayaked to an island nearby. He gave us the kayak for free, which we later found was quite a steal because others staying here are renting them for 400 baht a day.
The island we kayaked to was a couple of miles from where we are staying, which means Sean and I got a workout for the day. A little over 4 hours of ocean kayaking. We snorkeled a bit around the island we stopped at, which was really pretty. We saw lots of brain coral and colorful fish. I was tired for a few days from all that paddling. I cut my feet on some of the rocks on the beach, got a mild sunburn and blistered fingers. Worth it. Also cut my palm open falling on the rocks when we brought the kayak up at low tide. That was a challenge.
We wanted to go to a place we'd read about called Barrio Bonito for dinner, a Mexican place owned by a couple of expats that had gotten great reviews. Unfortunately it proved impossible to find so we ended up at a place called Ciao. It was an Italian place owned by an Irishman and his Thai wife, who was the chef. For neither of them being Italian it was some of the tastiest Italian food I have ever had. Sean got the special, which was meatballs in traditional tomato sauce with mozarella and penne. I got penne with a mushroom truffle cream sauce, and we split a vegetarian pizza and the house red wine (which was actually pretty good- a happy first for Thailand!). Somehow we ate all of it (I blame the kayaking). We had a really pleasant conversation with the owners, as well. All in all a day well spent.
Sunday we explored the east side of the island. We started our trip with breakfast on the west side at a place called Papa's bakery, where we got chocolate croissants. So delicious especially given that they are so hard to find around here. Good bread, real homemade bakery bread is hard to find. We bought a couple of sandwiches for lunch from Papa's, Italian Salami with pesto and tomatoes and Gouda on homemade toast. We went to Than Mayom waterfall, which was alright. It was pretty but very crowded. We'd heard that a couple of kings had carved their initials into the rocks at the top and wanted to climb up and see, but there was a little man in uniform that blew his whistle and fussed when anyone got too close to the rocks around the falls. The water felt great, though and it was a fun little trek through the park. After the falls, we tried to find a mangrove forest that's a sort of restoration project, but the roads and the signage were confusing and difficult for motorbike novices to traverse, so we ended up just turning around and going back. We stopped for coffee halfway up which ended up being a good decision because we got to sit out a really bad storm.
Monday we went to a little beach near our hostel and sat in a couple of deck chairs underneath an umbrella napping and reading all day. The ocean was the perfect temperature, there were very few rocks and the water was really clear. We overlooked Bang Bao Bay and a couple of tiny islands that are to the south of Koh Chang. It was a really relaxing and calm last day.
I definitely did not get enough pictures, sorry! And I have not uploaded all of them to Facebook. I'll get on that eventually.
Today starts my first day back teaching. Second semester, and I'm told there will be many more holidays and activities than last semester. I also now have a second job, working with Cambridge Language School to help elementary school and a couple of high school kids with extra lessons, as well as a private lesson with Fang's boss's 4-year old daughter in the works. Should be a pretty busy next four months. I'm trying to save money so that I can stay a little longer after my contract ends. Fang is also trying to get me to sing with one or two of his bands, so that may be another way to get some more cash. If I can get over all feelings of "hell no, I'd have to be in front of people!"
We'll see how it goes....
